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Strict Standards: Redefining already defined constructor for class WP_Object_Cache in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/cache.php on line 389

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 537

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 537

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 537

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Page::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 537

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_PageDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 556

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::start_lvl($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 653

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_lvl() should be compatible with Walker::end_lvl($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 653

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 653

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_Category::end_el() should be compatible with Walker::end_el($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 653

Strict Standards: Declaration of Walker_CategoryDropdown::start_el() should be compatible with Walker::start_el($output) in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/classes.php on line 678

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/query.php on line 21

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Strict Standards: call_user_func_array() expects parameter 1 to be a valid callback, non-static method subscribe_me::widgetize() should not be called statically in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/plugin.php on line 160

Deprecated: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-content/plugins/silaspartners/flickr/widget.php on line 65

Strict Standards: Non-static method braille::init() should not be called statically in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-content/themes/braille09/functions.php on line 46

Strict Standards: call_user_func_array() expects parameter 1 to be a valid callback, non-static method braille_options::init() should not be called statically in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/plugin.php on line 160

Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/kses.php on line 446

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Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/kses.php on line 446

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Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/kses.php on line 511

Strict Standards: call_user_func_array() expects parameter 1 to be a valid callback, non-static method subscribe_me::css() should not be called statically in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/plugin.php on line 160

Strict Standards: call_user_func_array() expects parameter 1 to be a valid callback, non-static method subscribe_me::js() should not be called statically in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/plugin.php on line 160
Voyage à mobylette » Cap sur l'Afrique

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Merci à tous et rendez-vous le 1er mai !


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           Nous tenons à remercier chaleureusement toutes les personnes sans qui ce voyage n’aurait pas été possible, ainsi que les personnes croisées sur notre route, protagonistes imprévisibles de notre parcours : nos familles et plus particulièrement nos parents Jean-Pierre et Marylène, Edith et Jacques, Marc et Armelle, nos frères et sœurs, nos amies et amis Maud, Claire, Max, Joak, les Bloblo, Paulac, tous les potes, toutes les personnes présentes à notre départ, Lucuts, Vince, Stéphane Mèche, la famille Bizeul, la famille Bouët, Michel et Christine, Mounim, Asmae et leurs filles, Rafik, Mireille et leurs enfants, Françoise Marié, la famille Dibo, Yann et Véronique Moreau, Aziz Nouali, Aziz Maham, Boujemaà, la famille Rannou, Hamid, Abdoulaye, Yohan, Céline et Noa, Félix, Carmen, Méla, Manon, Domanik, la famille Llorcà, DJ Cool, Jean-Mi et Fan-Fan de l’Ecole Mobile, les villageois de Ouo, Kansaye Bokar, Lamine, Banban, Bouli, Modibo, Yassine, Nicolas Navarro, Bertrand, Lisa et leurs enfants, Thomas, Abdul Ali, Zaccharia, Shaka, Michel de Peyriac, la Maison d’Alençon à Koutiala et ses gentils gardiens, Isabelle et Alain, Manu, Frédéric, Pascal, René, Jocelyne, Echoes of Reason, Elise, tous ceux qu’on aurait pu oublier, nos partenaires Artisans du Monde, la DDJS et la ville d’Alençon. Merci encore !!! 

         Afin de mettre en lumière notre aventure, Benjamin, Arnaud et moi-même serons présents dans la cour carrée du musée d’Alençon, le 1er mai prochain, à partir de 10h, dans le cadre de la braderie de Lancrel. Vous pourrez voir une sélection des plus belles photos du voyage, agrandies sur des panneaux et redécouvrir le carnet de voyage. Nous serons à votre disposition pour parler de notre périple. Pour plus d’infos, n’hésitez pas à nous contacter par mail. A bientôt !

 


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Au revoir l’Afrique, l’Europe nous appelle…


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Jour 150, 19/02/08

Ce soir c’est le grand soir ! Quelle impression bizarre de s’imaginer dans l’avion, pour un trajet qui mettra un terme à ces cinq mois inoubliables en si peu de temps… On commence à rassembler nos affaires. Les gars se rendent (encore) en ville pour finir leurs négociations et acheter des cigarettes, tandis que je me rends (encore) au cyber pour rattraper le retard du site. On se retrouve vers 18h à l’appartement. Notre vol est fixé à trois heures du matin. On prépare nos sacs, on charge nos caisses, en espérant ne pas dépasser le poids autorisé. On va manger au resto. L’heure approche… On dit au revoir à Shaka. On trouve un taxi, dans lequel on charge tout notre barda.

On arrive à l’aéroport vers minuit. Nous sommes aussitôt accostés par un porteur qui embarque nos affaires et refuse de nous dire combien on lui devra. On passe à l’enregistrement des bagages, le poids ne dépasse pas la limite autorisée, ouf… Nos caisses et nos sacs disparaissent sur le tapis roulant. Pourvu qu’on ne soit pas fouillés, on a quatre cartouches de Dunhill chacun dans nos affaires (contre seulement deux autorisées). On approche du poste de police frontière, la tension monte… L’agent tamponne nos passeports sans sourciller, nouveau ouf… On monte ensuite dans la salle d’embarquement. Il n’y a pas foule parmi les passagers, sauf quelques Européens et une bande improbable de fauconniers saoudiens en djellaba et coiffés d’un keffieh, fumant des clopes et buvant des bières dans la salle d’embarquement. Un haut-parleur appelle « Arnaud Betton » au service des douanes. Montée d’adrénaline… On fonce vers une petite pièce où les bagages sont passés aux rayons x. Le douanier nous signale que la caisse d’Arnaud contient des objets suspects. Il nous somme d’ouvrir la malle. Il s’agit en fait de nos outils, dont le métal a été détecté. Le douanier, visiblement zélé, souhaite approfondir la fouille, s’attardant sur les statuettes contenues dans la caisse. Par chance, il néglige les cigarettes. Il nous demande si on dispose d’une autorisation du Muséum National pour l’achat de ces produits. On peine à se convaincre qu’il ne s’agit pas d’une mauvaise blague. S’en suit une longue manœuvre verbale visant à amadouer le douanier et à lui faire comprendre qu’on n’a pas l’attention de lui lâcher un franc. Il finit par nous réclamer un café, qu’on va gentiment lui chercher au bar de la salle d’embarquement, soulagé de cette moindre peine.

L’embarquement est imminent, on se dirige vers notre avion, un Boeing 737 de la compagnie Royal Air Maroc. La tension monte doucement pour Arnaud et moi, qui n’avons jamais pris l’avion. On s’installe à nos places. Les moteurs démarrent. L’avion se met en branle, puis se dirige vers la piste de décollage. Une poussée surpuissante nous colle au siège. L’avion quitte le sol, s’élançant dans la nuit africaine. A travers le hublot, on ne voit pas la terre s’éloigner. En revanche, on perçoit très nettement un sillon fin et lumineux, tracé dans le sol poussiéreux, se déployant jusqu’à l’horizon. Peu à peu, le sillon s’anime, effectuant une danse hypnotique dans le ciel noir. De cette cicatrice de lumière s’échappent des milliers d’images et de sensations, de visages, de paysages, qui virevoltent dans la nuit africaine. Le sillon se met à scintiller, intensément, jusqu’à devenir aveuglant. Les images tourbillonnent, à toute vitesse, puis se fondent dans la lumière, qui devient insoutenable. J’ouvre les yeux. L’avion se stabilise. A travers le hublot, il n’y a que la nuit.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Derniers jours à Bamako


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Jour 148, 17/02/08

Le programme de nos derniers jours à Bamako est simple : se reposer -Nono se remet doucement mais il n’est pas encore au top- actualiser le site et s’enquérir de nos derniers souvenirs au marché de l’artisanat. On doit également renouveler notre visa, expiré le 16. Une impression étrange et paradoxale nous habite tous les trois. Le voyage touchant à sa fin, nous sommes désormais dans l’attente du retour, ce qui provoque en nous un sentiment mêlé d’impatience et d’appréhension. Six heures de vol vont nous faire « remonter » cinq mois d’une vie trépidante et guidée par l’imprévu, faite de découvertes, de rencontres, d’enseignements, de joies mais aussi de difficultés…

Dans la matinée, on se rend aux services de l’immigration, où l’on nous dit que le renouvellement du visa coûte 5000 FCFA. On décide de prendre le risque de ne pas le renouveller, sachant qu’on ne l’aura dépassé que de trois jours. On met au point un alibi bien bidon en prévision du passage à la frontière à l’aéroport : on vient d’arriver à Bamako, après être resté coincé plusieurs jours en brousse à cause d’une panne mécanique. On se dirige ensuite vers le marché de l’artisanat, à la boutique de Modibo, un artisan que Benam et Nono avaient rencontré lors de notre premier passage à Bamako. L’artisanat est concentré dans un quartier du centre ville. Partout des sculptures en bois, des masques, des objets de toutes sortes ornent les arcades et les passages autour des bâtiments du marché. Dans les rues, à même le sol ou assis sur des tabourets de fortunes, les artisans rabotent, liment, poncent, cisaillent, cirent les morceaux d’ébène ou de teck auxquels ils donnent la forme d’une femme, d’un animal ou d’un masque tribal. L’un d’entre eux, devant la boutique de Modibo, s’affaire sur une petite statuette aux formes encore brutes représentant une femme et son enfant. Je décide d’assister à la fin de l’ouvrage et d’acheter l’objet si l’on m’en demande un prix raisonnable. Les gars me quittent pour se rendre dans un autre quartier, on se rejoindra plus tard chez Ibrahim. Je passe une bonne heure à admirer le travail de l’artisan, au geste à la fois intuitif et précis, donnant vie à ce petit bout de bois avec une maîtrise impressionnante. Je négocie le prix de la statuette, que j’achète, puis je saute dans un taxi en direction de Djelibougou, le quartier où vivent Ibrahim et sa famille. Je me rends au cyber pour actualiser le site. Le soir, on se retrouve chez Ibrahim pour le dîner. On raconte nos dernières aventures.

Jour 149, 18/02/08

Les gars retournent à l’artisanat pour finir leurs achats, je passe une bonne partie de ma journée au cyber. Le soir on mange chez les Dibo, à qui on dit au revoir car on ne les reverra pas demain. Inutile de préciser que leur accueil a été formidable et nous a permis de découvrir une famille malienne de l’intérieur.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Sévaré-Bamako en car : neuf heures dans la fournaise…


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Jour 147, 16/02/08

On se lève à 5h du matin pour prendre le taxi en direction de la gare routière. On charge nos caisses dans un 4×4. On arrive sur place. Le jour se lève doucement. Une sorte de confusion molle règne sur la gare routière, où tout le monde semble encore en phase de réveil. Des gamins nous réclament de l’argent. Des vendeurs à la sauvette brandissent leur marchandise. Les heures passent, notre car n’arrive pas. On prend notre mal en patience. Vers 9h, on nous fait signe que le car arrive et qu’on va pouvoir charger nos bagages. Le véhicule est relativement récent et en bon état, ce qui n’est pas sans nous rassurer… On part. Le confort laisse quelque peu à désirer, on est bien tassés, mais ç’aurait pu être pire. A mesure que le soleil monte, la température à bord suit le mouvement. Le car fait régulièrement des pauses dans des villages, pour prendre de nouveaux passagers, provoquant inévitablement un raz de marée de vendeurs dans l’allée centrale, criant et remuant dans l’espoir d’écouler leur marchandise : gâteaux, fruits et légumes, boissons, friandises… Pendant les neuf heures de trajet, on crève de chaud, on sue toute l’eau de notre corps, attendant avec impatience l’arrivée à Bamako. En début de soirée, on entre dans la capitale. Le car nous dépose à la Tour de l’Afrique, juste à côté de l’appartement prêté par Ibrahim. On décharge nos bagages. Un porteur avec un chariot nous propose de transporter nos caisses jusqu’à l’appartement, ce qu’on accepte volontiers. On arrive, Shaka nous accueille avec sa bonne humeur habituelle. Trop crevés, on reste à l’appartement, on n’ira chez les Dibo que demain. Le soir, on se fait un bon resto, avant de rentrer puis de sombrer dans un sommeil profond…

A suivre : Derniers jours à Bamako


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Balade à Mopti puis rencontre sympa à Sévaré


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Jour 145, 14/02/08

On se lève de bonne heure pour aller se balader à Mopti, située à douze kilomètre de Sévaré. Nono se sent déjà mieux. Un grand festival débute aujourd’hui à Mopti, on prévoit d’aller jeter un oeil. On passe d’abord à la gare routière de Sévaré pour acheter nos billets de car pour Bamako, puis on se fait emmener à Mopti en taxi. On arrive sur le site du festival, bondé de monde, dont une grande majorité de gamins (et d’adultes) traquant les touristes pour réclamer un cadeau ou vendre leur marchandise. Un nombre incalculable de petites boutiques proposent leurs produits, de la nourriture, des objets artisanaux. Un jeune parlant très bien français nous accoste. On lui demande ce qu’il veut nous vendre, mais il dit vouloir seulement faire connaissance et nous faire visiter la ville. Hassan nous raconte sa vie, qu’on soupçonne d’être quelque peu fictive. On se laisse guider sans se poser de question. Après s’être arrêtés manger un tié bou dien, on va se balader dans la vieille ville, toute en banco. On marque une pause dans une chouette boutique d’artisanat. Le jeune guide nous emmène chez lui. On s’installe pour boire le thé dans une espèce de cabane en paille meublée d’une banquette et de fauteuils. Il nous propose une excursion en pirogue sur le Niger, on décline poliment l’invitation. On retourne en ville. On s’arrête boire un verre, Hassan nous lâche, sentant qu’il n’y a rien à tirer de nous. On se dirige vers la gare routière pour prendre un taxi collectif qui nous ramène à Sévaré. On monte dans un fourgon Mercedes, où l’on se tasse à 22 (le maximum autorisé…). Du grand luxe… On rentre à l’hôtel. Demain c’est repos et rangement, avant le départ pour la capitale, samedi matin.

Jour 146, 15/02/08

Comme prévu, on se repose. Le soir, deux français de 24 et 28 ans arrivent à l’hôtel. Ils sont frères et originaires de Lyon. Ils arrivent du Bénin, à deux sur une moto chinoise 125 cm3 achetée à Cotonou, à la Che Guevara… Ils ont traversé le Bénin, le Burkina, le Niger puis le Mali. Leur périple se poursuivra jusqu’au Sénégal. Tous deux percussionnistes, ils ont fait fabriqué deux djembés au Burkina, puis ont fait monter sur leur moto une armature en métal pour transporter leur instrument. A Dakar, ils vendront leur moto puis prendront l’avion pour rentrer en France. On sympathise en échangeant sur nos expériences respectives. Notre périple leur donne envie de remonter jusqu’en France en moto…  On passe une petite soirée très sympa à la terrasse de l’hôtel, mais on ne tarde pas à se coucher car demain, on met le réveil à 5h du mat’… On dit au revoir à nos collègues motards, en leur souhaitant bonne chance pour leur périple.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Actualisation du site imminente…


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Désolé pour ce petit contretemps les amis (en même temps, on vous y avait habitué…) mais il nous aura fallu quelques jours pour atterrir en douceur. Je m’attacherai à mettre le point final à l’aventure dans les jours à venir (ce week end si tout va bien).

Sinon tout va bien pour nous, nous avons retrouvé familles, amis, femmes et enfants, un petit confort pas désagréable, une grisaille dépaysante…

Bises à tous et surtout gardez le contact !


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Convalescence et vente des mobs à Bandiagara


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Jour 143, 12/02/08

Nono est toujours aussi fiévreux. Il va falloir s’accrocher pour atteindre Bandiagara. Avant de partir, on rencontre l’infirmier de Ouo et un membre d’un programme humanitaire, intéressés pour acheter les mobs de Nono et Benam. Une fois le prix de vente négocié et le rendez-vous pris à Bandiagara le surlendemain pour la transaction, on prend la route. On roule sans s’arrêter sur les quarante kilomètres de piste qui nous séparent de la ville. On trouve rapidement un hôtel, on se pose. Nono part consulter un médecin. Ce dernier (probablement nul ou peut-être même pas médecin) s’avère incapable de fournir à Nono un diagnostic précis, après lui avoir brutalement injecté une dose d’antalgique dans chaque bras. Pour ma part, je me contente de prendre pour mon ventre le même médicament que Benam, sur les conseils de l’infirmier de Ouo. On se repose. On décide de laisser tomber la visite de la falaise, trop compliquée et onéreuse. Ce sera un prétexte pour revenir. Je prospecte pour trouver un acheteur pour ma mob. Un jeune travaillant à l’hôtel m’affirme connaître quelqu’un d’intéressé. Le soir, il vient me voir en présence de l’acheteur potentiel. On convient d’un prix de vente, mais je sens qu’ils va vouloir tirer encore vers le bas. Je leur propose de venir en même temps que les autres acheteurs.

Jour 144, 13/02/08

On passe la journée à nettoyer et à réviser les mobs. Je me rends chez un réparateur pour régler un problème de carbu. Je suis toujours en prise avec mes problèmes d’intestins. Nono se remet, doucement.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Le pays Dogon hors des sentiers battus


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Jour 142, 11/02/08

Nono ne va pas mieux. Quant à moi, je me réveille avec une petite fièvre et les intestins en panne. On décide de partir en milieu d’après-midi à Bandiagara, afin de pouvoir se soigner dans de bonnes conditions et de préférence pas trop loin d’un poste de santé. En milieu de matinée, Benam et moi nous rendons à l’école pour notre petite intervention. Nono, fiévreux, reste se reposer. Le directeur nous présente aux élèves, puis Benam entame la séance, tandis que j’immortalise la scène avec la caméra. Je le rejoins peu après face à l’auditoire. Nono nous rejoint, il s’assoie au fond de la salle. Les élèves nous écoutent religieusement. On dresse un portrait global de la France, évoquant ses grandes caractéristiques, notamment géographiques (population, superficie, climats, reliefs, fleuves…) Le cours semble captiver les élèves, mais paradoxalement, ils peinent à nous poser des questions. On leur parle un peu de notre voyage, mais on se trouve vite limités par notre manque de préparation. Vers 15h30, on part visiter le village traditionnel situé sur le plateau, Ouo-Saré, guidés par Abdoulaye. Nono suit le mouvement. On a prévu de prendre la route après la ballade. A peine arrivés au pied du village, on est déjà sous le charme de cet assemblage de maisons en pierre, d’où émergent les pointes en chaumes des greniers traditionnels. On entre dans un dédalle de ruelles étroites, escorté par un groupe de gamins qui s’agrandi à mesure qu’on avance. On serre des dizaines de paluches, à des vieux du village, à des jeunes. On passe dans une sorte couloir où oeuvrent des artisans, qui fabriquent des bijoux en bronze. On arrive dans un premier « toguna », une case à palabre traditionnelle, dans laquelle sont enterrés d’anciens notables du village. On poursuit la visite. On monte dans une ancienne maison en banco à plusieurs étages, la seule du village. La bâtisse tombe malheureusement en ruine, mais depuis son sommet, on peut admirer un panorama fabuleux sur le village et ses environs. On rencontre d’autres artisans, dont une potière qui vient de terminer une énorme jarre, encore humide, des forgerons, une tisserande en train d’enrouler sa bobine de fil, on salue des vieux qui palabrent sous un toguna, on passe auprès d’une vieille mosquée en banco. Notre ballade est une véritable immersion dans un microcosme traditionnel, où la modernité semble n’avoir pu s’immiscer. Il y a trois cent ans, les lieux ne devaient pas être très différents. On rentre à Ouo-Camp, la tête pleine d’images. On devait repartir cet après-midi, mais il est trop tard, on ne prendra la route que demain matin.


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Nono malade, Benam et moi en ballade…


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Jour 141, 10/02/08

Nono se réveille fiévreux, il a grelotté toute la nuit. Il prend sa température : 39.8° ! Malheureusement, l’infirmier est absent, il va falloir attendre qu’il revienne au village. Les enfants nous amènent du riz pour le petit déjeuner. Dans la matinée, on va faire la connaissance du maire, puis du sous-préfet du cercle (équivalent de nos départements) de Ouo. Il nous parle du village, divisé en plusieurs entités, dont Ouo-camp (la partie administrative où nous logeons), Ouo-Saré (le village traditionnel Dogon situé sur un plateau, à deux kilomètres), Ouo-Bombo (hameau situé entre Ouo-Camp et Ouo-Saré, où vivent entre autres Abdoulaye, Amadoune, le maire et leurs familles) et enfin Ouo-Guina (hameau de bergers Peuls situé à quelques kilomètres). Le sous-préfet nous confie être jaloux du succès touristique des autres villages du pays Dogon. Il regrette que Ouo ne soit pas plus visité par les étrangers. On lui glisse que finalement, ce n’est peut-être pas si mal… Dans la journée, on rencontre pas mal de gens, on joue avec des enfants du village, dont beaucoup nous tournent autour. On rencontre le directeur de l’école du village, où quelque deux cent enfants sont scolarisés. D’un commun accord, on décide de venir faire une intervention le lendemain, dans la classe des sixièmes années, pour leur parler de la France et éventuellement du voyage. Nono attend le retour de l’infirmier, car sa fièvre n’a pas l’air de baisser. Avec Benam, on part se balader vers Ouo-Bombo. On traverse des jardins maraîchers et un grand verger semé d’énormes manguiers. La verdure des lieux, ainsi que les parcelles, délimitées par des troncs plantés à la verticale, nous rappellent la Casamance. Auprès d’un puits, on croise une famille, dont la petite fille se met à pleurer en nous voyant, n’ayant probablement jamais vu de Blancs. On monte sur le plateau qui mène à Ouo-Saré, qui nous offre une vue imprenable sur les greniers de Ouo-Bombo et sur la mangueraie. On rentre à la mairie. L’infirmier arrive et ausculte Nono. Il procède d’abord à un test pour savoir s’il s’agit ou non du paludisme. La réponse est non. D’après les symptômes (toux sèche, forte fièvre), l’infirmier indique qu’il peut s’agir d’une fièvre typhoïde ou d’une pneumonie. Pas très réjouissant, tout ça… Il lui prescrit les mêmes médicaments que Benam et du paracétamol pour la fièvre. Plus tard, on va assister à la finale de la CAN chez l’infirmier, en compagnie de plusieurs autres personnes. On se couche tôt. Demain matin, on fait notre intervention à l’école et l’après-midi, nous irons visiter Ouo-Saré, guidés par Abdoulaye. Ma nuit sera courte, entrecoupée à plusieurs reprises par une méchante diarrhée…


Strict Standards: mktime(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 14

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

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Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 23

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 25

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 27

Strict Standards: date(): It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'Europe/Berlin' for 'CEST/2.0/DST' instead in /homepages/5/d146584263/htdocs/capsurlafrique/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

Objectif Ouo atteint !!


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Jour 140, 09/02/08

On prend la route de Bandiagara, située à une soixante kilomètres. Benam se sent déjà mieux. Le paysage se vallonne, se pare d’imposants rochers et de palmiers. Le sommet d’une belle côte nous offre un panorama impressionnant sur la brousse. On atteint Bandiagara, base des excursions vers la falaise du même nom, où se concentrent les fameux villages Dogons. On se pose pour manger un sandwich. Un vendeur de motos vient à notre rencontre et nous demande si nos engins sont à vendre. On lui répond que bien sûr, on les vend, mais qu’on doit d’abord réfléchir entre nous au prix de vente. Il nous propose de repasser dans quelques minutes, se disant prêt à acheter les trois d’un coup. Chiche… On décide de ne pas descendre au-dessous de 125 000 FCFA (environ 200€). Le type revient. Le marchandage commence. Il nous propose 100 000 par mob, et refuse d’augmenter. On dit tant pis, on a des acheteurs à 125 000 à Sévaré (ce qui est faux, bien sûr…). On repousse la vente à plus tard, on n’est pas pressés. On prend la route de Ouo, une piste plutôt large et de bonne facture. Le village se situe à quelques kilomètres au sud de la falaise et se trouve être, d’après nos informations, absent de tout circuit touristique, de par sa position excentrée. Plus que quarante kilomètres à parcourir avant d’atteindre notre but. Un vieux car est renversé sur le bord de la voie. Plus loin, on s’arrête pour prêter notre pompe à un motard crevé. On croise un Français immatriculé dans le 61 dans un Renault Trafic. On cherche un panneau indiquant Ouo, mais on ne trouve pas. On arrive à un carrefour, avec un barrage de police. L’un des agents nous indique une piste, qui nous mènera à Ouo, situé à deux kilomètres. La tension monte, nous ne sommes plus qu’à deux petites bornes de notre objectif, après plus de neuf mille kilomètres parcourus ! On aperçoit, en contrebas de la route, plusieurs bâtiments. On bifurque. La nuit commence à tomber. On entre dans le village, fait de bâtiments administratifs entourés de maisons en pierre traditionnelles. Ca y est, on y est, on l’a fait, atteindre notre but, l’issue de notre long parcours ! Le compteur affiche : 9299 kilomètres ! On a peine à y croire, comme si c’était trop facile pour être vrai. On a l’impression d’être un soir comme les autres, lorsqu’on atteint un village à la nuit tombante. Un homme, l’infirmier du village, nous accueille, on lui explique la raison de notre visite. Il nous présente Abdoulaye Dibo, pilier du village et cousin d’Ahamada Dibo, notre contact français dont la famille est originaire de Ouo. Il nous souhaite la bienvenue et nous propose de nous loger dans la salle de réunion de la mairie. On fait la connaissance d’Amadoune Dibo (encore un !), un jeune du village, qui gère le stock de médicaments. Des enfants, envoyés par Abdoulaye, nous amènent des spaghetti à la viande de moutons. On ne tarde pas à se coucher, fatigués par la piste. Nono, particulièrement crevé, se demande s’il n’est pas en train de couver quelque chose.

Distance parcourue : 105 km
Total : 9299 km, objectif atteint !